

In the Diamond Valley, where lava fields and rambling ranches abut the verdant marshlands of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge (a mecca for bird lovers), you’ll find the stately Hotel Diamond. Saddle up on one of the counter’s eight seats and prepare to be soothed by what have to be the most divinely down-home cheeseburgers, fries, and milkshakes anywhere.Ģ2276 Fields Dr, Fields 54 Hotel Diamond The perfect antidote to a day spent baking in the Alvord Desert lies in the lonely town of Fields (population: about 12), where you’ll be greeted by the welcome oasis of Fields Station-a combination café, gas station, general store, post office, motel, and RV park. And I love the open landscape-the desert plateaus and the lava buttes-just to see the horizon, not blocked by anything. I always love coming home because everybody here waves. My family is Danish, so I spent a semester studying in Denmark.

I left to study journalism at Eastern Oregon University. We all went to school in a one-room schoolhouse. When there were barn dances, we used to sneak out and throw rocks through the dusty old windows. I remember the storefronts around those big poplars were still there. My grandmother came here from Kansas on a wagon when she was 8. Don’t forget the self-timing camera for your summit shot: chances are, you’ll have the crater to yourself.Ĭo-owner (and manager and cook) at the Hotel Diamond proprietor of Swamp Creek Ranch From your perch, smack in the middle of a mile-wide bowl, the Wallowas and the Blue Mountains rule the skyline. About 30 miles northeast of Baker City, the easy 1.5-mile out-and-back jaunt ends atop a 420-foot-tall volcanic plug. This splendiferous hike is so well hidden that a few folks in the local ranger’s office hadn’t even heard of it. Owner Mary Ellen Stevenson is a Baker City native who’s happy to tell you not only what gives the Gilstrap Brothers Rio Grande Rhonde its light, fruity taste (the Kuhlman Foch grapes, a French hybrid that’s taken a shine to Eastern Oregon’s arid climate), but also where to replace those blue jeans you just tore a hole in (hint: try the feed store on the way out of town).Ģ001 Washington Ave, Baker City 54 Sawtooth Crater This spacious store specializes in smaller labels, like a white merlot from the Gilstrap Brothers vineyard in nearby Cove. Try the Goldie, a delicious kind of albino brownie.ġ07 E Main St, Enterprise 54 Earth & Vine Plus, there are dynamite pastries from Joseph’s Wild Flour Bakery. You might even stumble upon a reading during the Fishtrap literary festival () in July and February. The shop is a fraction of the size of Powell’s Books, but it has all the heart.
THE ETERNAL FRONTIER LOUIS L AMOUR FULL
Stop into the Bookloft for a healthy collection of volumes full of local history and lore-especially about Oregon’s Nez Perce tribe. (Open May through mid-October) 83471 Lewiston Hwy, Enterprise 54 Just reserve one of the three tepees along the canyon’s edge. And for breakfast? A sunrise that paints the canyon pink, purple, and orange. Such ruggedness is best tempered with a delicate Willamette Valley pinot and a tender steak prepared by chef Otto Nielson. Farther east, the scorched landscape crinkles into countless coulees before taking a final plunge into Hells Canyon. A hundred yards from the restaurant’s back porch, the earth drops away, plummeting into Joseph Canyon. When you arrive for dinner at the RimRock Inn, you might think you’ve reached the edge of the world. Just don’t hold us accountable for any speeding tickets.ġ119 Adams Ave, La Grande 54 RimRock Inn Restaurant The Joe & Sugar Blend is nice and smooth, but if you really want to sink the spurs into your brain, opt for the Colombian Roast. McCloud (who once owned the café) and offers caffeine fiends at least three different varieties each day. I can honestly say there is no place like home-when I see the cattle as I’m coming in, and I think, ‘There’s a guy out there who needs a saddle.’ - As told to Kasey CordellĪ favorite of La Grande locals, this tiny café uses beans roasted by longtime La Grande resident Al
THE ETERNAL FRONTIER LOUIS L AMOUR MOVIE
We made three for the movie All the Pretty Horses. I learned firsthand how the saddles and the gear get used. From about 14 to 23, I rodeoed and worked on ranches from Montana to Arizona. I grew up in the shop, so I was always involved with horsemen of the West. It still smells like leather you can’t mistake the good smell of leather wherever you encounter it. My father and my uncle purchased this building in 1946, and we’ve been here ever since. Owner of Severe Brothers Saddlery in Pendleton, which the Smithsonian has honored for leatherwork nine times
